Authors: Andrew Beahrs
Twain's Feast (45 page)
165
“Even a pinprick of gall”
“A Talk About Terrapins,”
New York Times.
“Even a pinprick of gall”
“A Talk About Terrapins,”
New York Times.
165
“Here was your terrapin”
“Hints for the Household,”
New York Times.
“Here was your terrapin”
“Hints for the Household,”
New York Times.
165
“A little gall does not impair”
Jones,
American Food,
53.
“A little gall does not impair”
Jones,
American Food,
53.
165
the ideal Maryland winter dinner
“A Talk About Terrapins,”
New York Times.
the ideal Maryland winter dinner
“A Talk About Terrapins,”
New York Times.
165
“after his second spoonful”
“Hints for the Household,”
New York Times.
“after his second spoonful”
“Hints for the Household,”
New York Times.
166
“One feels so cowed, at home
” Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 56.
“One feels so cowed, at home
” Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 56.
166
“It will not do for me to find merit”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
275-76.
“It will not do for me to find merit”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
275-76.
166
“There are artists in Arkansas”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 191.
“There are artists in Arkansas”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 191.
166
“a luxury which very seldom”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
290.
“a luxury which very seldom”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
290.
167
“made a rare & valuable”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 192.
“made a rare & valuable”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 192.
167
Rhine wine from vinegar
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
64.
Rhine wine from vinegar
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
64.
167
“we bought a bottle or so of beer”
Ibid., 196.
“we bought a bottle or so of beer”
Ibid., 196.
167
Emmentaler cheese
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 195.
Emmentaler cheese
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 195.
167
green, egg-size plums
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
58.
green, egg-size plums
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
58.
167
German pears, cherries
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 273.
German pears, cherries
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 273.
167
“we had such a beautiful day”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
171.
“we had such a beautiful day”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
171.
168
“There is no pleasanter place”
Ibid., 64.
“There is no pleasanter place”
Ibid., 64.
168
“poor cheap 2d hand meats”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 315.
“poor cheap 2d hand meats”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 315.
168
“Short visits to Europe”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
297.
“Short visits to Europe”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
297.
168
“Ah for a hot biscuit”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 272.
“Ah for a hot biscuit”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 272.
169
Calf ’s Head
Fannie Merritt Farmer,
The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book
(Boston: Little, Brown, 1896), 187.
Calf ’s Head
Fannie Merritt Farmer,
The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book
(Boston: Little, Brown, 1896), 187.
171
“there are whole banks of them”
Robert A. Hedeen,
The Oyster: The Life and Lore of the Celebrated Bivalve
(Centreville, MD: Tidewater Publishers, 1986), 6.
“there are whole banks of them”
Robert A. Hedeen,
The Oyster: The Life and Lore of the Celebrated Bivalve
(Centreville, MD: Tidewater Publishers, 1986), 6.
171
a female can store sperm
Brennessel,
Diamonds in the Marsh,
80.
a female can store sperm
Brennessel,
Diamonds in the Marsh,
80.
173
“one may commit murder, steal a horse”
Washington Post,
Nov. 1902, quoted in Eugene Meyer, “Easy Come, Easy Go,”
Chesapeake Bay Magazine,
Apr. 2005. Online at
www.terrapininstitute.org/turtleking%20text.htm
.
“one may commit murder, steal a horse”
Washington Post,
Nov. 1902, quoted in Eugene Meyer, “Easy Come, Easy Go,”
Chesapeake Bay Magazine,
Apr. 2005. Online at
www.terrapininstitute.org/turtleking%20text.htm
.
175
Italy’s Queen Margaret
“Maryland Dishes for Rome,”
New York Times,
Dec. 3, 1897, p. 1.
Italy’s Queen Margaret
“Maryland Dishes for Rome,”
New York Times,
Dec. 3, 1897, p. 1.
175
list of their individual characteristics
Brennessel,
Diamonds in the Marsh,
11.
list of their individual characteristics
Brennessel,
Diamonds in the Marsh,
11.
176
“only flesh known”
“Terrapin Culture,”
New York Times,
Dec. 26, 1897 (repr.
Baltimore Sun
), p. 9.
“only flesh known”
“Terrapin Culture,”
New York Times,
Dec. 26, 1897 (repr.
Baltimore Sun
), p. 9.
176
commanded ninety dollars a dozen
“Chesapeake Bay Terrapin,”
New York Times,
Apr. 1, 1894, p. 21.
commanded ninety dollars a dozen
“Chesapeake Bay Terrapin,”
New York Times,
Apr. 1, 1894, p. 21.
176
The official 1891 harvest
Meyer, “Easy Come, Easy Go.”
The official 1891 harvest
Meyer, “Easy Come, Easy Go.”
176
Baltimore’s Hotel Rennert
Fincham, “The Men Who Would Be Kings.”
Baltimore’s Hotel Rennert
Fincham, “The Men Who Would Be Kings.”
176
well-known Baltimore gourmet
“Chesapeake Bay Terrapin,”
New York Times.
well-known Baltimore gourmet
“Chesapeake Bay Terrapin,”
New York Times.
176
“a delusion and a snare”
“Canvas-Back Duck Trust,”
New York Times,
Feb. 5, 1888.
“a delusion and a snare”
“Canvas-Back Duck Trust,”
New York Times,
Feb. 5, 1888.
176
no more than fifteen thousand
“Terrapin Season Begun,”
New York Times.
no more than fifteen thousand
“Terrapin Season Begun,”
New York Times.
176
“there ain’t nobody in a hundred”
Ibid.
“there ain’t nobody in a hundred”
Ibid.
177
“I am constantly surprised”
“Chesapeake Bay Terrapin,”
New York Times.
“I am constantly surprised”
“Chesapeake Bay Terrapin,”
New York Times.
178
Genuine bluepoint oysters
Vileisis,
Kitchen Literacy,
62-63.
Genuine bluepoint oysters
Vileisis,
Kitchen Literacy,
62-63.
178
some of the many substitutions
Ibid., 60-63.
some of the many substitutions
Ibid., 60-63.
181
“tangled, inextricable confusion”
Twain,
Autobiography,
232.
“tangled, inextricable confusion”
Twain,
Autobiography,
232.
181
a culture that treats foods as medicines
Pollan,
The Omnivore’s Dilemma,
1-3.
a culture that treats foods as medicines
Pollan,
The Omnivore’s Dilemma,
1-3.
181
“it is a pity”
Twain,
Autobiography,
6.
“it is a pity”
Twain,
Autobiography,
6.
182
“Dear Mrs. H—”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 204.
6. THE MOST ABSORBING STORY IN THE WORLD: SHEEP-HEAD AND CROAKERS, FROM NEW ORLEANS“Dear Mrs. H—”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 204.
183
“told an astonishing tale of
coca
”
Mark Twain, “‘The Turning Point of My Life,’” in
Collected Tales, 1891-1910,
932.
“told an astonishing tale of
coca
”
Mark Twain, “‘The Turning Point of My Life,’” in
Collected Tales, 1891-1910,
932.
183
“the concentrated bread & meat of the tribes”
Unpublished sketch, quoted in Emerson,
Mark Twain: A Literary Life,
9.
“the concentrated bread & meat of the tribes”
Unpublished sketch, quoted in Emerson,
Mark Twain: A Literary Life,
9.
183
“discovered that there weren’t any
” Twain,
Autobiography,
128.
“discovered that there weren’t any
” Twain,
Autobiography,
128.
184
the nine or ten
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
79.
the nine or ten
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
79.
184
“I thought I had seen all kinds”
SLC to Ann E. Taylor, June 1, 1857, New Orleans,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00013.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed May 5, 2009.
“I thought I had seen all kinds”
SLC to Ann E. Taylor, June 1, 1857, New Orleans,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00013.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed May 5, 2009.
185
some two hundred steamers
Details on steamboating from Rasmussen,
Mark Twain A-Z,
440-42.
some two hundred steamers
Details on steamboating from Rasmussen,
Mark Twain A-Z,
440-42.
185
“the only unfettered”
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
166.
“the only unfettered”
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
166.
185
“a wonderful book”
Ibid., 118.
“a wonderful book”
Ibid., 118.
186
“My nightmares, to this day”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 449-50.
“My nightmares, to this day”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 449-50.
186
nearly a thousand boats
Powers,
Mark Twain,
79.
nearly a thousand boats
Powers,
Mark Twain,
79.
186
Ten of the fifteen
Ibid.
Ten of the fifteen
Ibid.
186
back into the New Orleans levee
Ibid., 94.
back into the New Orleans levee
Ibid., 94.
187
“A broad expanse of the river”
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
119.
“A broad expanse of the river”
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
119.
188
“Yesterday I had many things to do”
SLC to Orion Clemens, Sept. 29, 1860, New Orleans,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00025.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed May 5, 2009.
“Yesterday I had many things to do”
SLC to Orion Clemens, Sept. 29, 1860, New Orleans,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00025.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed May 5, 2009.
188
if all of Louisiana’s shrimp survived
Mike Tidwell,
Bayou Farewell: The Rich Life and Tragic Death of Louisiana’s Cajun Coast
(New York: Vintage Departures, 2003), 143.
if all of Louisiana’s shrimp survived
Mike Tidwell,
Bayou Farewell: The Rich Life and Tragic Death of Louisiana’s Cajun Coast
(New York: Vintage Departures, 2003), 143.
188
“I think that I may say that an American”
SLC to Pamela A. Moffett, March 9 and 11, 1859, New Orleans,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00019.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed May 5, 2009.
“I think that I may say that an American”
SLC to Pamela A. Moffett, March 9 and 11, 1859, New Orleans,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00019.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed May 5, 2009.
189
Baked Sheepshead
The Picayune’s Creole Cook Book
(New Orleans: Picayune, 1901; repr. Mineola, NY: Dover, 2002), 42.
Baked Sheepshead
The Picayune’s Creole Cook Book
(New Orleans: Picayune, 1901; repr. Mineola, NY: Dover, 2002), 42.
192
fifteen times
Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Factsheet, online at
www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?fid=245
.
fifteen times
Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Factsheet, online at
www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?fid=245
.
193
replacement for speckled trout
Rima and Richard Collin,
The New Orleans Cookbook
(New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1994), 83.
replacement for speckled trout
Rima and Richard Collin,
The New Orleans Cookbook
(New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1994), 83.
193
frying the center bones
Ibid., 89.
frying the center bones
Ibid., 89.
193
“any sauce or catsup”
Hearn,
Creole Cook Book,
23-24.
“any sauce or catsup”
Hearn,
Creole Cook Book,
23-24.
195
buy one broiled for thirty-five cents
William Head Coleman,
Historical Sketchbook & Guide to New Orleans
(New York: W. H. Coleman, 1885), 86.
buy one broiled for thirty-five cents
William Head Coleman,
Historical Sketchbook & Guide to New Orleans
(New York: W. H. Coleman, 1885), 86.
195
“the most to be commended”
Picayune’s Creole Cook Book,
42.
“the most to be commended”
Picayune’s Creole Cook Book,
42.
196
“the mode in which New Orleans”
Quoted in Coleman,
Historical Sketchbook,
85.
“the mode in which New Orleans”
Quoted in Coleman,
Historical Sketchbook,
85.
197
The Secret of Good Frying
Picayune’s Creole Cook Book,
41.
The Secret of Good Frying
Picayune’s Creole Cook Book,
41.
198
rain falling in part of twenty-eight states
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
22.
rain falling in part of twenty-eight states
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
22.
198
a miserly three inches
John M. Berry,
Rising Tide: The Great Mississippi Flood of 1927 and How It Changed America
(New York: Simon & Schuster, 1997), 7.
a miserly three inches
John M. Berry,
Rising Tide: The Great Mississippi Flood of 1927 and How It Changed America
(New York: Simon & Schuster, 1997), 7.
198
René-Robert de La Salle
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
25.
René-Robert de La Salle
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
25.
198
“We’ll creep through cracks”
Ibid., 125.
“We’ll creep through cracks”
Ibid., 125.
198
“swinging grape-vines”
Ibid., 134.
“swinging grape-vines”
Ibid., 134.
198
“like Satan’s own kitchen”
Ibid., 136-38.
“like Satan’s own kitchen”
Ibid., 136-38.
199
“solid mile”
Ibid., 254.
“solid mile”
Ibid., 254.
199
“One who knows the Mississippi”
Ibid., 302.
“One who knows the Mississippi”
Ibid., 302.
199
“pulling the river’s teeth”
Ibid., 300.
“pulling the river’s teeth”
Ibid., 300.
199
“two-thousand-mile torch-light procession”
Ibid., 295.
“two-thousand-mile torch-light procession”
Ibid., 295.
200
“Here was a thing which had not changed”
Ibid., 252.
“Here was a thing which had not changed”
Ibid., 252.
200
“much the youthfulest batch”
Ibid., 23.
“much the youthfulest batch”
Ibid., 23.
200
For seven thousand years
Gay Gomez,
The Louisiana Coast: Guide to an American Wetland
(College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 2008), 19-21.
For seven thousand years
Gay Gomez,
The Louisiana Coast: Guide to an American Wetland
(College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 2008), 19-21.
201
The equivalent of Manhattan
Ibid., 26.
The equivalent of Manhattan
Ibid., 26.
201
during the 1880s
Tidwell,
Bayou Farewell,
129.
during the 1880s
Tidwell,
Bayou Farewell,
129.
201
Army Corps of Engineers’ dikes
Ibid., 31; for more details on the era’s engineering of the river, see Berry,
Rising Tide.
Army Corps of Engineers’ dikes
Ibid., 31; for more details on the era’s engineering of the river, see Berry,
Rising Tide.
201
century-old grid of oil-company
Christopher Hallowell,
Holding Back the Sea: The Struggle on the Gulf Coast to Save America
(New York: Harper Perennial, 2001), 17.
century-old grid of oil-company
Christopher Hallowell,
Holding Back the Sea: The Struggle on the Gulf Coast to Save America
(New York: Harper Perennial, 2001), 17.
202
the GPS of one shrimping boat
Tidwell,
Bayou Farewell,
178.
the GPS of one shrimping boat
Tidwell,
Bayou Farewell,
178.
202
fish, crab, and shrimp thrive
Ibid., 140, 265-67.
fish, crab, and shrimp thrive
Ibid., 140, 265-67.
202
Every 2.7 miles
Ibid., 57; see also Hallowell,
Holding Back the Sea.
Every 2.7 miles
Ibid., 57; see also Hallowell,
Holding Back the Sea.
202
Third Delta Conveyance Channel
Ibid., 183-89.
Third Delta Conveyance Channel
Ibid., 183-89.
203
“myriad small islands”
Ibid., 313.
“myriad small islands”
Ibid., 313.
204
“scoundrels”
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
412-14.
“scoundrels”
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
412-14.
204
“to see what the polar regions”
Ibid., 409.
“to see what the polar regions”
Ibid., 409.
205
“The chief dish”
Ibid., 445-46.
“The chief dish”
Ibid., 445-46.
205
wheat had ceased to be a luxury in the South
Joe Gray Taylor, “Foodways,” in
The Encyclopedia of Southern Culture,
vol. 2:
Ethnic Life-Law,
Charles Reagan Wilson and William Ferris, eds. (New York: Anchor, 1989), 362.
wheat had ceased to be a luxury in the South
Joe Gray Taylor, “Foodways,” in
The Encyclopedia of Southern Culture,
vol. 2:
Ethnic Life-Law,
Charles Reagan Wilson and William Ferris, eds. (New York: Anchor, 1989), 362.
206
“glorious with the general diffusion
” Christian Women’s Exchange,
Creole Cookery
(1885; Gretna, LA: Pelican Publishing, 2005), iii.
“glorious with the general diffusion
” Christian Women’s Exchange,
Creole Cookery
(1885; Gretna, LA: Pelican Publishing, 2005), iii.
206
peddlers walked the streets
Hearn,
Creole Cook Book,
unnumbered preface.
peddlers walked the streets
Hearn,
Creole Cook Book,
unnumbered preface.
206
“a very choice market for fish”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2
,
554.
“a very choice market for fish”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2
,
554.
206
Croakers and Mullets Fried
Hearn,
Creole Cook Book,
23.
Croakers and Mullets Fried
Hearn,
Creole Cook Book,
23.
215
Sheepshead à la Créole
Picayune’s Creole Cook Book,
43.
Sheepshead à la Créole
Picayune’s Creole Cook Book,
43.
215
“Everything was changed in Hannibal”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 479.
“Everything was changed in Hannibal”
Twain,
Notebooks & Journals,
vol. 2, 479.
216
“That world which I knew”
Emerson,
Mark Twain: A Literary Life,
138.
7. IT IS“That world which I knew”
Emerson,
Mark Twain: A Literary Life,
138.
MY
THANKSGIVING DAY: CRANBERRIES
217
“a vast roast turkey”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
292.
“a vast roast turkey”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
292.
218
“most villainous sauce”
Anonymous, “Memoir on the Consumption of Cranberry Sauce,” in William Tudor,
Miscellanies
(Boston: Wells and Lilly, 1821), 19-21.
“most villainous sauce”
Anonymous, “Memoir on the Consumption of Cranberry Sauce,” in William Tudor,
Miscellanies
(Boston: Wells and Lilly, 1821), 19-21.
219
Henry Hall
Christy Lowrance, “From Swamps to Yards,” in
Cranberry Harvest: A History of Cranberry Growing in Massachusetts,
Joseph D. Thomas, ed. (New Bedford, MA: Spinner Publications, 1990), 14.
Henry Hall
Christy Lowrance, “From Swamps to Yards,” in
Cranberry Harvest: A History of Cranberry Growing in Massachusetts,
Joseph D. Thomas, ed. (New Bedford, MA: Spinner Publications, 1990), 14.
219
the Andean highlands
Jonathan Roberts,
The Origins of Fruits and Vegetables
(New York: Universe Publishing, 2001), 187.
the Andean highlands
Jonathan Roberts,
The Origins of Fruits and Vegetables
(New York: Universe Publishing, 2001), 187.
219
Sanding, whether done on
Carolyn DeMoranville and Hilary Sandler, “Best Management Practices Guide: Sanding,” Cranberry Experiment Station Publication, 2000,
www.umass.edu/cranberry/services/bmp/sanding.shtml
.
Sanding, whether done on
Carolyn DeMoranville and Hilary Sandler, “Best Management Practices Guide: Sanding,” Cranberry Experiment Station Publication, 2000,
www.umass.edu/cranberry/services/bmp/sanding.shtml
.
219
carefully dug from wild bogs
Paul Eck,
The American Cranberry
(New Brunswick and London: Rutgers University Press, 1990), 69-71.
carefully dug from wild bogs
Paul Eck,
The American Cranberry
(New Brunswick and London: Rutgers University Press, 1990), 69-71.
220
To Stuff and Roast a Turkey
Simmons,
American Cookery,
18.
To Stuff and Roast a Turkey
Simmons,
American Cookery,
18.
220
“
Thanksgiving
Day”
SLC to Mary Mason Fairbanks, Nov. 26-27, 1868, Elmira, NY, in
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1867-1868.
Harriet Elinor Smith, Richard Bucci, and Lin Salamo, eds. Mark Twain Project Online (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007),
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL02767.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Nov. 27, 2009.
“
Thanksgiving
Day”
SLC to Mary Mason Fairbanks, Nov. 26-27, 1868, Elmira, NY, in
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1867-1868.
Harriet Elinor Smith, Richard Bucci, and Lin Salamo, eds. Mark Twain Project Online (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007),
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL02767.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Nov. 27, 2009.
221
Friday-night billiards
Mary Lawton,
A Lifetime with Mark Twain: The Memories of Katy Leary, for Thirty Years His Faithful and Devoted Servant
(New York: Harcourt, Brace, 1925), 70.
Friday-night billiards
Mary Lawton,
A Lifetime with Mark Twain: The Memories of Katy Leary, for Thirty Years His Faithful and Devoted Servant
(New York: Harcourt, Brace, 1925), 70.
221
“all-pervading spirit”
Powers,
Mark Twain,
563.
“all-pervading spirit”
Powers,
Mark Twain,
563.
221
Sideboards, the grandest
Williams,
Food in the United States,
67.
Sideboards, the grandest
Williams,
Food in the United States,
67.
221
“We had soup first”
Lawton,
A Lifetime with Mark Twain,
18-20.
“We had soup first”
Lawton,
A Lifetime with Mark Twain,
18-20.
222
enormous quantities of butter
Unless noted, details on the Twain household’s dining style are from Patti Phillippon, head curator at the Mark Twain House and Museum, personal communication, Sept. 29, 2009.
enormous quantities of butter
Unless noted, details on the Twain household’s dining style are from Patti Phillippon, head curator at the Mark Twain House and Museum, personal communication, Sept. 29, 2009.
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